Aftermath of Fukushima

I have visited Japan several times. But I consider my visit to Japan in March 2011, just a few days after the greatest tragedy of modern Japan, was a significant one.

Japan suffered the biggest disaster in 65 years after Hiroshima at 3PM on March 11th 2011 when a massive earthquake of magnitude 9 and a 40 meter high tsunami devastated the city of Fukushima and its nuclear reactors resulting in the huge loss of life and contamination of the environment with radiation.

Most of the foreigners in Tokyo were leaving the Japan and many countries had closed their embassies due to safety reasons. There was virtually an exodus taking place. Many governments had banned entry of Japanese food to their respective countries for fear of radioactive contamination of imported foodstuff.

Every day, the media was full of news about the increasing radiation levels in Tokyo city.

In these circumstances I landed in Narita. I found the immigration counters for foreign passport holders were deserted and I was one of the four foreigners arriving by the Singapore Airlines flight.

I reached Tokyo Kenshu Center of AOTS, where I had reserved room for my stay. I was received by the staff of TKC with disbelief. Many of them came to me asking whether I was not afraid of visiting Tokyo at that time. “If it is safe for you to be here, it is safe for me too”, I replied.

The day I landed there, Tokyo Water Bureau announced that the tap water was contaminated by radiation level, more than twice the recommended limit for infants. The local government had arranged to supply bottled mineral water to each household in Tokyo where infants needed safe drinking water.

Some of the problems I have seen in Tokyo during that visit were unprecedented. Many Metro trains were cancelled as a measure to conserve electricity.  In most of the stations and buildings escalators were not operational. Most of the vending machines were dead (Japan has the highest population of vending machines in the world).  Many pubs were deserted in the evenings. Shops were closed early. Most of the adult entertainment places in Shinjuku and Ueno were virtually not functioning.

In many cities people have taken a spontaneous decision not to have “Hanami” sessions to celebrate the imminent arrival of spring and the Sakura (Cherry blossom).  “Hanami” is an activity when small groups of people organize some kind of picnics under the Cherry trees. They enjoy viewing the flowers and gulp down bottles of beer and “Sake” and recite poems in praise of the spring and the Sakura.

Even after nearly two weeks, on almost every day, several high-intensity aftershocks of the major earthquake could be felt in Tokyo.

Actually it was not a consciously courageous decision on my part to visit Tokyo during the disaster time. My trip was planned at least a month earlier and I had to attend a very important business meeting. My host also did not expect me to stick to that schedule.

But later I realized that it was a wise decision, not to postpone my trip and that particular visit was seen by all my Japanese friends as a thoughtful one since they considered my visit as a sign of showing my solidarity with them while they were suffering, during the time of one of the greatest tragedies, Japan had to undergo.

What impressed me most was the dignified response shown by the Japanese people in facing the disaster. It was an unbelievable experience to see how the people have behaved with remarkable calmness, resilience and solidarity during those difficult times.

Zen Buddhism teaches Japanese people to “bear the unbearable” with a stoic approach.  This is deeply and culturally embedded in the Japanese psyche.

I am sure; this quiet determination shown by the Japanese people will go a long way in aiding the nation in its reconstruction efforts.