MURGI LUNCH AT NAIR’S RESTAURANT

George Bernard Shaw once said “I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad”.  That is one of the reasons why I never visit an Indian restaurant when I travel out of the country. But I always make an exception to visit “Nair’s Restaurant” whenever I go to Tokyo.

Nair’s restaurant in Tokyo is a place of historical significance. It was established by the legendary freedom fighter Madhavan Nair (known as Nair-san), who closely worked with Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose in Indian Independence League and Indian National Army.

Last time I visited Nair’s restaurant was six months ago, when I took a Japanese friend for lunch. “Nair’s Restaurant” is near the Kabuki Theatre in Higashi Ginza. In fact, Ginza is considered to be the most expensive place on earth. It is also the costliest shopping district. Almost every well-known brand in the world has a showroom there.

When we reached “Nair’s Restaurant” at around 11:30 AM, a small queue had already been formed to get into the restaurant. The place normally opens at 11:30 AM with offerings of lunch. Nair’s Restaurant also sold variety of Indian spices, Nair’s Ghee, Indira Curry Powder made by Nair & Co, and Maharaja Beer. Once we get inside, the Indian fragrance and décor welcome us. But the Indianness ends there. The cuisine and curry powder are made with a taste that suited Japanese palette. 

Manager of the place came to us with the menu card. Before we scan through the items, he asked me, “As usual, shall I take a “Murgi Lunch” for you?”

I meekly accepted his offer. My friend selected a combination of rice with “Curd Curry”. I had additionally ordered for a big bottle of Maharaja Beer. (I have never seen this brand in India (or anywhere else).

I owe some explanation regarding the Murgi Lunch and Curd Curry in the Nair’s restaurant. Murgi Lunch consisted of a yellow coloured ball of cooked rice, a bland side dish of cabbage, and two large pieces of chicken in spicy gravy. As soon as the dish is served, the waiter himself, with the help of a fork and knife removes the bones from the chicken pieces and offers us with the boneless chicken. “Murgi Lunch” is one of the most popular dishes for lunch, among their dedicated Japanese customers. 

What is a curd curry? It is nothing but “Pulissery” (well-known Kerala dish). (Arguably similar to “More Kuzhambu” in Tamil Nadu)

When Nair-san had established “Nair’s Restaurant” in the year 1949, it was the first authentic Indian eatery to open in Japan. At present there are more than 800 Indian restaurants all over the country.

After Nair’s Restaurant, it took many years for others to start Indian restaurants. But once started, those eateries proved to be big hits among the Japanese people. In spite of its huge success, there is still only one “Nair’s Restaurant” whereas several other Indian restaurants have grown as chains all over Japan.

Because, basically Nair-san was never an hotelier and the profit was not his primary motive. Being a patriot to the core, the main reason for setting up an Indian restaurant in Tokyo was to propagate Indian cuisine among the Japanese.

Nair-san, the patriot

Ayyappan Pillai Madhavan Nair, a native of Trivandrum, popularly known in Japan as Nair-san came to Japan as an Engineering student. Thereafter he made Japan his home and lived there for more than fifty years. He married a Japanese lady. He was quite nostalgic about his roots in Kerala, and had even changed the name of his Japanese wife to Janaki Amma.

During his studies in Japan he got involved in Indian freedom struggle. He had joined Indian Independence League in Japan under the leadership of Rash Behari Bose the legendary Indian freedom fighter in exile. Bose, a fugitive from the British government of India, found shelter in Japan and continued his activities against the British. He married a Japanese woman, who was the daughter of the owner of Nakamuraya restaurant in Tokyo.  Bose had become a Japanese citizen in 1923, living as a journalist and writer. It is also significant that he was instrumental in introducing Indian-style curry to Japan through his Nakamuraya Restaurant in Tokyo.

Rash Behari Bose along with Nair-san worked hard to persuade the Japanese government to support actively the Indian freedom struggle abroad. In the year 1942, Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose joined India Independence league and became its President. After that, in 1943, he decided to revive and strengthen the fledgling Indian National Army to fight along with the Japanese imperialistic army against the British forces. Netaji also declared the formation of Azad e Hind, the government of India in exile.

Nair-san joined hands with Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose in the INA. Nair-san’s life had changed forever when he came into contact with Netaji. He worked for Netaji as his interpreter and his life in the INA was quite eventful and adventurous. He travelled with Netaji all over Japan and other destinations in Southeast Asia.

With Netaji’s mysterious death in a plane crash, Nair-san wanted to return to India to serve his motherland. But, he felt that in the changed political scene of independent India Netaji and his contributions were not properly recognized and he realized that he would not get a proper role to play in the new government. So he had decided to remain in his adopted country of Japan.

Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first prime minister had offered him the position of Consul General of India in Kobe city, Japan. But nothing lesser than the position of Ambassador was acceptable to him and he had politely turned down the offer. But he continued to maintain a good personal relationship with Pandit Nehru and his family. That was the main reason why he named his popular curry powder as “Indira Curry Powder”.

His restaurant in Ginza was a way of maintaining his close link with India and also to meet and develop relationship with the Indians who visited Japan. Every year he used to visit Trivandrum and spent a few weeks in his house in Pujapura.

In recognition of his contribution to the strengthening of friendship between India and Japan Nair-san was awarded the highly respected decoration of the “Order of Merit of the Sacred Treasure” by Japanese emperor Hirohito in November 1984.

My encounter with Nair-san

I had the fortune to meet Nair-san in 1985 when I was in Tokyo undergoing a technical training under Japanese scholarship. Indian Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi was on a state visit to Japan. During his visit, there was a reception organized by Indian community in Tokyo in honour of the Prime Minister. During the same function Nair-san also was felicitated for receiving the highest honour in Japan.

I was introduced to Nair-san in that function. When he came to know that I was from his own hometown he was very happy.

I also know the second generation Nair-san Mr.Gopalan Nair. He is the second son of Nair-san. The Nair’s Restaurant is now run by him. He is also addressed as Nair-san. Gopalan Nair is basically a very soft person interested in Japanese traditional performing art of Kabuki. He is part of an amateur group that provides musical accompaniment to the Kabuki play. 

I look forward to my next trip to Tokyo in March. I would love to have my “Murgi Lunch” and Maharaja Beer.