George
Bernard Shaw once said “I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad”. That is one of the reasons why I never visit
an Indian restaurant when I travel out of the country. But I always make an
exception to visit “Nair’s Restaurant” whenever I go to Tokyo.
Nair’s
restaurant in Tokyo is a place of historical significance. It was established
by the legendary freedom fighter Madhavan Nair (known as Nair-san), who closely
worked with Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose in Indian Independence League and
Indian National Army.
Last
time I visited Nair’s restaurant was six months ago, when I took a Japanese
friend for lunch. “Nair’s Restaurant” is near the Kabuki Theatre in Higashi
Ginza. In fact, Ginza is considered to be the most expensive place on earth. It
is also the costliest shopping district. Almost every well-known brand in the
world has a showroom there.
When
we reached “Nair’s Restaurant” at around 11:30 AM, a small queue had already
been formed to get into the restaurant. The place normally opens at 11:30 AM
with offerings of lunch. Nair’s Restaurant also sold variety of Indian spices,
Nair’s Ghee, Indira Curry Powder made by Nair & Co, and Maharaja Beer. Once
we get inside, the Indian fragrance and décor welcome us. But the Indianness
ends there. The cuisine and curry powder are made with a taste that suited
Japanese palette.
Manager
of the place came to us with the menu card. Before we scan through the items,
he asked me, “As usual, shall I take a “Murgi Lunch” for you?”
I
meekly accepted his offer. My friend selected a combination of rice with “Curd
Curry”. I had additionally ordered for a big bottle of Maharaja Beer. (I have
never seen this brand in India (or anywhere else).
I
owe some explanation regarding the Murgi Lunch and Curd Curry in the Nair’s
restaurant. Murgi Lunch consisted of a yellow coloured ball of cooked rice, a
bland side dish of cabbage, and two large pieces of chicken in spicy gravy. As
soon as the dish is served, the waiter himself, with the help of a fork and
knife removes the bones from the chicken pieces and offers us with the boneless
chicken. “Murgi Lunch” is one of the most popular dishes for lunch, among their
dedicated Japanese customers.
What
is a curd curry? It is nothing but “Pulissery” (well-known Kerala dish). (Arguably
similar to “More Kuzhambu” in Tamil Nadu)
When
Nair-san had established “Nair’s Restaurant” in the year 1949, it was the first
authentic Indian eatery to open in Japan. At present there are more than 800
Indian restaurants all over the country.
After
Nair’s Restaurant, it took many years for others to start Indian restaurants.
But once started, those eateries proved to be big hits among the Japanese
people. In spite of its huge success, there is still only one “Nair’s
Restaurant” whereas several other Indian restaurants have grown as chains all
over Japan.
Because,
basically Nair-san was never an hotelier and the profit was not his primary
motive. Being a patriot to the core, the main reason for setting up an Indian
restaurant in Tokyo was to propagate Indian cuisine among the Japanese.
Nair-san, the patriot
Ayyappan
Pillai Madhavan Nair, a native of Trivandrum, popularly known in Japan as
Nair-san came to Japan as an Engineering student. Thereafter he made Japan his
home and lived there for more than fifty years. He married a Japanese lady. He
was quite nostalgic about his roots in Kerala, and had even changed the name of
his Japanese wife to Janaki Amma.
During
his studies in Japan he got involved in Indian freedom struggle. He had joined
Indian Independence League in Japan under the leadership of Rash Behari Bose
the legendary Indian freedom fighter in exile. Bose, a fugitive from the
British government of India, found shelter in Japan and continued his
activities against the British. He married a Japanese woman, who was the
daughter of the owner of Nakamuraya restaurant in Tokyo. Bose had become a Japanese citizen in 1923,
living as a journalist and writer. It is also significant that he was
instrumental in introducing Indian-style curry to Japan through his Nakamuraya
Restaurant in Tokyo.
Rash
Behari Bose along with Nair-san worked hard to persuade the Japanese government
to support actively the Indian freedom struggle abroad. In the year 1942,
Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose joined India Independence league and became its
President. After that, in 1943, he decided to revive and strengthen the fledgling
Indian National Army to fight along with the Japanese imperialistic army
against the British forces. Netaji also declared the formation of Azad e Hind,
the government of India in exile.
Nair-san
joined hands with Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose in the INA. Nair-san’s life had
changed forever when he came into contact with Netaji. He worked for Netaji as
his interpreter and his life in the INA was quite eventful and adventurous. He travelled
with Netaji all over Japan and other destinations in Southeast Asia.
With
Netaji’s mysterious death in a plane crash, Nair-san wanted to return to India
to serve his motherland. But, he felt that in the changed political scene of
independent India Netaji and his contributions were not properly recognized and
he realized that he would not get a proper role to play in the new government.
So he had decided to remain in his adopted country of Japan.
Jawaharlal
Nehru, India’s first prime minister had offered him the position of Consul
General of India in Kobe city, Japan. But nothing lesser than the position of
Ambassador was acceptable to him and he had politely turned down the offer. But
he continued to maintain a good personal relationship with Pandit Nehru and his
family. That was the main reason why he named his popular curry powder as
“Indira Curry Powder”.
His
restaurant in Ginza was a way of maintaining his close link with India and also
to meet and develop relationship with the Indians who visited Japan. Every year
he used to visit Trivandrum and spent a few weeks in his house in Pujapura.
In
recognition of his contribution to the strengthening of friendship between
India and Japan Nair-san was awarded the highly respected decoration of the
“Order of Merit of the Sacred Treasure” by Japanese emperor Hirohito in November
1984.
My encounter with
Nair-san
I
had the fortune to meet Nair-san in 1985 when I was in Tokyo undergoing a
technical training under Japanese scholarship. Indian Prime Minister Rajiv
Gandhi was on a state visit to Japan. During his visit, there was a reception
organized by Indian community in Tokyo in honour of the Prime Minister. During
the same function Nair-san also was felicitated for receiving the highest
honour in Japan.
I
was introduced to Nair-san in that function. When he came
to know that I was from his own hometown he was very happy.
I
also know the second generation Nair-san Mr.Gopalan Nair. He is the second son
of Nair-san. The Nair’s Restaurant is now run by him. He is also addressed as
Nair-san. Gopalan Nair is basically a very soft person interested in Japanese
traditional performing art of Kabuki. He is part of an amateur group that
provides musical accompaniment to the Kabuki play.
I
look forward to my next trip to Tokyo in March. I would love to have my “Murgi
Lunch” and Maharaja Beer.
