Canopy walk and an endangered monkey

It was an exhilarating feeling to walk on the forest canopy and the view was breathtaking.  I felt like floating on the treetops experiencing the nature in its imposing magnificence.  I was walking on the canopy walkway of the Kakum National Park of Ghana. Kakum, located in the central region of Ghana, is one of the best preserved Rainforest reserves in the world.

The walkway composed of 360 meters of seven swinging bridges and six connecting wooden platforms reaching heights of around 40 meters. The walking above the treetops offered a spectacular view of the rain forest ecosystem. Though I found it incredible, it was a slightly unsettling experience to walk along the swaying suspended walkway connected to the platforms built around the tall trees by thick ropes.

Several hundreds of species including plants, animals, insects and birds live in the level of the forest canopy. These species could not be seen on the forest floor. Kakum forest has around 300 identified kinds of birds living above the canopy. The sight of these colourful birds gliding through the forest canopy was really fascinating. 

Photographs by the author

In a rainforest most of the plant and animal life exist in the forest canopy and not in the forest floor. Typically the canopy of tree tops will be at least 30 meters above ground. According to the biologists 60 to 90 percent of the flora and fauna of the forest live in the canopy.  In addition to the plants, insects and birds, larger animals such as frogs, sloths, monkeys and lizards also are found in the canopies. 

The greatest diversity of living organisms are seen in the tropical rain forests. In fact more than 50% of all biological species on the earth are endemic to the tropical rain forests. As the name conveys the rain forests have very high rainfall, with an annual rainfall from 250 to 450 centimeters. World’s rainforests   are seen in the geographical regions of Amazon river basin of Central America, Africa, Malaysia, Australia, and India. Assam and Western Ghats of Southern India have rainforests with ecosystems of large biodiversity.  

More than 20% of world’s Oxygen, comes from these rainforests. Poet Pablo Neruda describes them as the “Lungs of the world”. Recently I read in an article that “Rainforests are world’s largest pharmacies”. The reason is more than a quarter of natural medicines are discovered in rainforests.

My nervous and slow progress on the swaying rope-bound walkway was interrupted by a monkey sitting on the wooden platform and staring at me. It was small, dark grayish and with a long tail. Throat, front side and upper part of its forehead were while.   Both my hands were holding the rope-railings on both the sides of the hanging bridge. I tried to free one hand to retrieve my camera from its case and in the process, the bridge started swaying wildly and I gave the effort. The monkey with a contemptuous look jumped to the nearest tree and by the time I reached the platform, it disappeared from my sight.  

Photo courtesy Wikipedia

Later I came to know that it was an extremely rare sighting and the monkey was called “Diana Monkey”, which was classified as one of the most endangered monkey species. I remembered another endangered primate specie called “Lion tailed macaque” in Silent Valley rainforest of Western Ghats of Southern India. 

Destroying the Rainforests

Globalization and market based economic planning pose the biggest threat for our forest wealth. Deforestation is taking place all over the world at a very fast pace and this will have a catastrophic impact on the ecological balance.Destruction of rainforests is the result of various factors, such as political, social and economic compulsions. The reason for deforestation may vary from place to place. In a globalized market there are demands for timber and other forest products. Need for farming and agricultural products are also increasing. Farmers cut down forests for creating farming land. Another major factor is the requirement of additional land for new infrastructure development.  The so called drivers of the economic development are also responsible for initiating the process for the destruction of our rain forests. Apart from the impact on ecology, deforestation displaces indigenous people and deprives of their livelihood. It also destroys the wild-life.According to the UN environment program, animal populations of earth, now, are 30% lesser than in 1970. This is an alarming situation.

Two Major segments of industry responsible for the destruction of rainforests are identified as the “Oil production” companies of two different categories. They are – the oil industries involved in the exploration and refining of fossil fuel and the second are the oil companies that produce normal plant-based cooking oils.  

Rainforest ecosystems are being destroyed for the oil exploration. The exponential growth in global demand for the fossil fuels is the result of the industrial development. Moreover, the burning of Petrol and other such fuels result in the emission of Carbon Dioxide, which in turn contributes to global warming. The exploration for fossil fuel in Africa and the Amazon region of Latin America is being aggressively pursued by several multinational companies from the industrialized countries. Almost one-third of the rainforests are in danger of getting destroyed once large scale production starts taking place. In Congo the Virunga national park is almost on the verge of destruction. Virunga region being the last habitat of Mountain Gorilla, an endangered ape, the destruction of forests will seriously imperil their existence.

Palm oil is a key ingredient used in processed food and other food products including chocolates. Palm oil is used as the primary cooking oil in most part of the world. Palm oil is also used for making cosmetics, detergents etc. Oil palms need a rainforest climate with a high humidity and temperature. Mass production of palm oil resulted in the devastation of rainforests. Several multinational companies are waiting for setting up new oil palm plantations in various parts of Africa, Asia and South America. In Congo alone 275 million acres of rainforest land is identified for palm oil industries. 

Recently, Ecuador Government approved the oil drilling in the Yasuni National Park in Amazon rainforest. This region contains more biological species in one hectare area than all the wild life in whole of North America. This decision came as a rude shock for the ecology activists all over the world who were fighting against such a move. The debt and the poverty of the nation had forced to take this step. This implies that the big oil companies of China and USA may be given opportunity to destroy millions of acres of the pristine rainforests of the amazon basin. The Wauroni tribes, who live in the forests of Ecuador are challenging this decision of the government. They look towards the rich countries for help.

But the support promised by the developed countries never materialized. The President of Ecuador expressed his helplessness saying “The world has failed us”. He blamed the lack of foreign support.  He added “We don’t ask for charity. It is also the responsibility of the international community in the face of climate change”

 “Rainforest Alliance”, an international NGO functioning from more than 100 locations all over the world, is working hard spreading the message and creating consensus among the concerned countries to take steps for protecting the remaining rainforests. All rich countries must come forward to support this initiative, since this is not for any particular region but for the whole of humanity.

MURGI LUNCH AT NAIR’S RESTAURANT

George Bernard Shaw once said “I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad”.  That is one of the reasons why I never visit an Indian restaurant when I travel out of the country. But I always make an exception to visit “Nair’s Restaurant” whenever I go to Tokyo.

Nair’s restaurant in Tokyo is a place of historical significance. It was established by the legendary freedom fighter Madhavan Nair (known as Nair-san), who closely worked with Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose in Indian Independence League and Indian National Army.

Last time I visited Nair’s restaurant was six months ago, when I took a Japanese friend for lunch. “Nair’s Restaurant” is near the Kabuki Theatre in Higashi Ginza. In fact, Ginza is considered to be the most expensive place on earth. It is also the costliest shopping district. Almost every well-known brand in the world has a showroom there.

When we reached “Nair’s Restaurant” at around 11:30 AM, a small queue had already been formed to get into the restaurant. The place normally opens at 11:30 AM with offerings of lunch. Nair’s Restaurant also sold variety of Indian spices, Nair’s Ghee, Indira Curry Powder made by Nair & Co, and Maharaja Beer. Once we get inside, the Indian fragrance and décor welcome us. But the Indianness ends there. The cuisine and curry powder are made with a taste that suited Japanese palette. 

Manager of the place came to us with the menu card. Before we scan through the items, he asked me, “As usual, shall I take a “Murgi Lunch” for you?”

I meekly accepted his offer. My friend selected a combination of rice with “Curd Curry”. I had additionally ordered for a big bottle of Maharaja Beer. (I have never seen this brand in India (or anywhere else).

I owe some explanation regarding the Murgi Lunch and Curd Curry in the Nair’s restaurant. Murgi Lunch consisted of a yellow coloured ball of cooked rice, a bland side dish of cabbage, and two large pieces of chicken in spicy gravy. As soon as the dish is served, the waiter himself, with the help of a fork and knife removes the bones from the chicken pieces and offers us with the boneless chicken. “Murgi Lunch” is one of the most popular dishes for lunch, among their dedicated Japanese customers. 

What is a curd curry? It is nothing but “Pulissery” (well-known Kerala dish). (Arguably similar to “More Kuzhambu” in Tamil Nadu)

When Nair-san had established “Nair’s Restaurant” in the year 1949, it was the first authentic Indian eatery to open in Japan. At present there are more than 800 Indian restaurants all over the country.

After Nair’s Restaurant, it took many years for others to start Indian restaurants. But once started, those eateries proved to be big hits among the Japanese people. In spite of its huge success, there is still only one “Nair’s Restaurant” whereas several other Indian restaurants have grown as chains all over Japan.

Because, basically Nair-san was never an hotelier and the profit was not his primary motive. Being a patriot to the core, the main reason for setting up an Indian restaurant in Tokyo was to propagate Indian cuisine among the Japanese.

Nair-san, the patriot

Ayyappan Pillai Madhavan Nair, a native of Trivandrum, popularly known in Japan as Nair-san came to Japan as an Engineering student. Thereafter he made Japan his home and lived there for more than fifty years. He married a Japanese lady. He was quite nostalgic about his roots in Kerala, and had even changed the name of his Japanese wife to Janaki Amma.

During his studies in Japan he got involved in Indian freedom struggle. He had joined Indian Independence League in Japan under the leadership of Rash Behari Bose the legendary Indian freedom fighter in exile. Bose, a fugitive from the British government of India, found shelter in Japan and continued his activities against the British. He married a Japanese woman, who was the daughter of the owner of Nakamuraya restaurant in Tokyo.  Bose had become a Japanese citizen in 1923, living as a journalist and writer. It is also significant that he was instrumental in introducing Indian-style curry to Japan through his Nakamuraya Restaurant in Tokyo.

Rash Behari Bose along with Nair-san worked hard to persuade the Japanese government to support actively the Indian freedom struggle abroad. In the year 1942, Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose joined India Independence league and became its President. After that, in 1943, he decided to revive and strengthen the fledgling Indian National Army to fight along with the Japanese imperialistic army against the British forces. Netaji also declared the formation of Azad e Hind, the government of India in exile.

Nair-san joined hands with Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose in the INA. Nair-san’s life had changed forever when he came into contact with Netaji. He worked for Netaji as his interpreter and his life in the INA was quite eventful and adventurous. He travelled with Netaji all over Japan and other destinations in Southeast Asia.

With Netaji’s mysterious death in a plane crash, Nair-san wanted to return to India to serve his motherland. But, he felt that in the changed political scene of independent India Netaji and his contributions were not properly recognized and he realized that he would not get a proper role to play in the new government. So he had decided to remain in his adopted country of Japan.

Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first prime minister had offered him the position of Consul General of India in Kobe city, Japan. But nothing lesser than the position of Ambassador was acceptable to him and he had politely turned down the offer. But he continued to maintain a good personal relationship with Pandit Nehru and his family. That was the main reason why he named his popular curry powder as “Indira Curry Powder”.

His restaurant in Ginza was a way of maintaining his close link with India and also to meet and develop relationship with the Indians who visited Japan. Every year he used to visit Trivandrum and spent a few weeks in his house in Pujapura.

In recognition of his contribution to the strengthening of friendship between India and Japan Nair-san was awarded the highly respected decoration of the “Order of Merit of the Sacred Treasure” by Japanese emperor Hirohito in November 1984.

My encounter with Nair-san

I had the fortune to meet Nair-san in 1985 when I was in Tokyo undergoing a technical training under Japanese scholarship. Indian Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi was on a state visit to Japan. During his visit, there was a reception organized by Indian community in Tokyo in honour of the Prime Minister. During the same function Nair-san also was felicitated for receiving the highest honour in Japan.

I was introduced to Nair-san in that function. When he came to know that I was from his own hometown he was very happy.

I also know the second generation Nair-san Mr.Gopalan Nair. He is the second son of Nair-san. The Nair’s Restaurant is now run by him. He is also addressed as Nair-san. Gopalan Nair is basically a very soft person interested in Japanese traditional performing art of Kabuki. He is part of an amateur group that provides musical accompaniment to the Kabuki play. 

I look forward to my next trip to Tokyo in March. I would love to have my “Murgi Lunch” and Maharaja Beer.